#1) Can I install this myself?
There are advantages with both methods of installation, whether you elect a
factory installation, or prefer to sub-contract the installation out yourself.
Factory installations will allow you to focus on other areas of your business.
Coordination of the deliveries, hiring the sub-contractors, securing proof of
insurance and workers compensation coverage, and the physical part of receiving,
inspecting and installing the equipment will be taken off your hands. The larger
the job, the more time and energy this may take. You will also receive a 90-day
labor warranty on the equipment following start-up. However these benefits do
come with a price. You will be paying for these services through us.
If you have some comfort level with dealing with subcontractors, then you can
save yourself some costs through purchasing your equipment on a "self-installed"
basis. You will be purchasing equipment only through us, the same as any contractor
or builder would. We will provide you with shipping information and tracking numbers,
but you will be responsible for coordinating the deliveries with the freight lines.
Either you or your agents will be responsible for all aspects of receiving, inspecting
and installing the equipment. As a contractor, there are no labor coverage's on
the equipment apart from the glass doors. Only the parts and components themselves
are under warranty, not the labor involved in replacing them.
The advantage you can gain by doing the job yourself is in your ability to
"micro-manage" the project. Many customers prefer to install the cabinet
themselves and farm out only the refrigeration and electrical hook-up. Perhaps
you have established relationships with installers already, and are comfortable
in dealing with them yourself. On larger projects and new construction where you
are already working with a General Contractor, it may be wise for you to hire
them for the installation also. There may be fewer conflicts if they have full
control over the project, and work with subcontractors that they are familiar
with.
#2) Where do I begin?
All coolers, regardless of style begin from the ground up. Site preparation
will be the key to success. Start with the existing floor. It should be sound,
smooth, level and made with a non-absorbing material. If the existing concrete
floor is visibly flawed, consider having it leveled prior to installation. If
not, then the cooler will have to be shimmed to compensate. The cooler must be
level for the doors to seal properly. Shimming the cooler walls will result in
gaps underneath which will then have to be sealed. If the wall panels can rest
snugly to the floor, then a bead of silicone caulk is all that's needed to form
a tight seal. Look up as well, and make sure there aren't any pipes, ductwork,
sprinkler heads, etc. in the way. They will be easier to deal with prior to installation.
The overall height of your cooler will be shown on our drawings.
If you have to work with a less then perfect floor, the first step will be
to determine the highest point with a carpenters level. This is the point where
you should begin the installation. As you lock together the adjoining panels,
use shim stock to raise each seam in line with the starting panel, keeping everything
square and plum as you go. Leave some space between the cooler walls and the walls
of the building, a few inches at least. There are no guaranties that the walls
of your building are square and plumb. A trick we use is to lay dimensional lumber
at the base of the wall, and press the wall panels up against it. This provides
an even spacing, and gives the panels something solid to rest against. The gap
left between the cooler and the outer walls can be enclosed following installation.
If your display includes an insulated floor, then each floor panel will have
to be leveled as it is set in place. Shims must be evenly spaced under the panel.
If only the outside edges are shimmed, then the floor panel will sag over time
and use. Once the floor is leveled and locked together, the wall panels can be
set in place. No further leveling should be necessary, since the wall panels rest
directly on the insulated floor.
Once all the walls are locked together, you can check the overall square of
the box by measuring and comparing the opposite corner-to-corner dimensions. Adjust
the wall panels till these measurements are the same. You can now set the ceiling
panels in place. They should lay square with the wall panels. There should be
an even seam along the top, with no staggered or saw-toothed appearance. Lock
down the ceiling, and install any doors, windows or partition walls supplied with
your kit. All of the rough openings should be square and plumb, since you have
followed correct installation procedures.
Place a bead of silicone in the joint where the wall panel meets the ceiling
and also in the joint where the wall panels meet the floor. No caulk will be needed
wherever there is a rubber gasket seal between the panels. If the gap at the floor
seam is too large to caulk, then use minimal expansion spray foam, which you can
purchase at any hardware store. Spray it under the walls, and let it expand and
harden. Trim the extra off with a knife, and finish the base off with tile or
cove base. Use the L-brackets in your parts kit to anchor the inside of the wall
panels to the floor.
#3) How much help will I need?
In most cases, walk-in cooler deliveries will be made via a Common Carrier
freight line. We select carriers based on their track record of fewest damage
claims, as well as the freight rates and speed of delivery.
Prior to Delivery, we will provide you with the tracking numbers ("Pro
numbers") and phone numbers of the delivery terminals. Because you have purchased
equipment "Factory Direct", there may be as many as four separate shipments
to coordinate. If you have purchased your equipment on a "self install"
basis, then you are responsible to coordinate the delivery times with the individual
carriers. You should be able to arrange for all items to be delivered on the same
day.
When the delivery truck arrives, a minimum of four people will be required
to unload your equipment (two in the truck, and two on the ground). Remember that
the drivers are not required to help unload your shipment. The best way to unload
your cooler is panel by panel, even if you have access to a forklift. This will
allow you to make a thorough inspection of all pieces.
Important: Note any damage or missing items on the freight bill as you accept
the shipment. Have the driver initial your notes. When the equipment leaves
our factory, it is in perfect condition. When the carrier picks it up, they take
responsibility for it, until the point you take possession. When you sign for
receipt of the equipment with no damage noted, you are assuming the responsibility
for the care and handling of the freight. If after delivery you then claim damage,
the likelihood of compensation or restitution is very unlikely.
Each standard full-size cooler panel will weigh approximately 65 pounds, and
is roughly the size of a sheet of plywood, only thicker. Our ceiling panels inset
into the tops of our wall panels, so at the top of every wall panel there will
be a 4" high extension, which we call a valance. Do not carry the panel by
the valance, or you could inadvertently bend it. If your cooler has a floor, there
will also be a valance at the bottom of the wall panel. Stand the wall panels
on its "flat" bottom. If both ends are valanced, lay the panel on its
long side. As you continue to unload the shipment, be sure to lift (don't slide)
each panel off the next. This will avoid scratches to the metal surface. We can
provide a small bottle of matching touch-up paint if needed.
Indoor compressors can weigh upwards of one hundred pounds. Outdoor compressors
can weigh several times this amount. If your shipment includes glass doors, these
crates can be heavy and awkward. This is why we recommend a minimum of four people
to receive deliveries.
#4) Cam-lock hook is loose
The locking mechanisms for our modular panels are referred to as "Cam-Locks".
One side of the panel will have at least two male Cams (hook) which will connect
to an adjacent panel whose edge has the female Cams (pin). The male hook is designed
to engage the female pin when the 5/16" cam wrench (provided) is turned clockwise.
The pivot for the arm is eccentric shaped, and as the wrench is tightened, the
arm will pull inwards, securing a tight panel-to-panel seal.
Occasionally you will find a male fastener with the hook assembly extended
and loose. You will be unable to engage the locking mechanism or lock the panels
together. All you need to do is "re-cock" the locking arm. Insert the
cam wrench into the cam mechanism, and twist the wrench counter-clockwise till
you feel resistance. At this point continue to turn the wrench, till you feel
the arm bottom out. The hook will now be fully retracted, and in position for
normal assembly.
#5) Do I need an insulated floor?
If you are placing the walk-in cooler on a cement slab that is at ground level
with no basement or crawl space underneath, no insulated floor will be necessary.
You will need to provide insulation either on top of, or underneath, any cooler
placed over a basement, second story, or crawl space. The refrigeration will pull
the heat out of the flooring, and if there is warmer air underneath condensation
will form, causing damage to the floor material and space below. If you need to
provide protection, your options include the following:
1) The floor can be insulated from underneath. This has to be done very
carefully, since any air leaks will still lead to condensation. Many times this
is not possible because the underside of the flooring is blocked by obstructions.
If the flooring is made of an absorbent material, it will need to be protected
with sheet vinyl, or some other type of moisture barrier.
2) You can purchase an insulated floor. This will isolate the refrigerated space,
and prevent any problems with heat transfer. You will also pick up an additional
15% in energy savings on average. Disadvantages will be a 4" step-up into
the cooler. An optional floor ramp can be ordered. These disadvantages will be
minor when compared to the expense of correcting any structural damage to a building
though.
3) Some customers prefer to build their own insulated platform. Foam
board can be purchased at building centers. Care must be taken to cross-stack
the sheets of insulation to eliminate any seams or gaps in the material.
Other floor materials…
A) Concrete with vinyl or ceramic tile; OK for a "floorless" walk-in.
B) Concrete with carpeting; Do not install a "floorless" walk-in on
top of carpeting as the high humidity levels will create mildew and odor. Simply
cut the carpeting around the exterior of the walk-in and remove it. If you wish
to save the carpeting or your landlord prevents you from cutting the carpeting
then order the SRC reinforced insulated floor.
C) Concrete with hardwood; it's recommended you order the SRC reinforced insulated
floor to protect the beautiful finish from the high humidity conditions.
Exceptions…
If the cooler is in a hot warehouse, garage or outdoors on a non-insulated slab,
consider ordering the SRC reinforced insulated floor. The energy savings alone
can help pay back the cost of the reinforced insulated floor.
#6) Where do I run the drain line?
All Evaporator Coils mounted in walk-in coolers and freezers have a drain connection
on the bottom. The fitting size of this connection varies by the style of the
coil. Excess condensation forms on the cold surfaces inside the coil cabinet,
and must be carried away from the refrigerated space. Health codes will prevent
the drainage of this condensation within the walk-in itself. Drain lines in freezers
must be run in copper, and must be wrapped with heat tape. Drain lines in coolers
can usually be run with PVC drainage material. All drain lines should be properly
pitched and trapped. Unions should be provided at the coils for ease of service
in the future.
In most cases, local codes will dictate the ultimate destination for this drain
line to run. If you are in the planning stages for the building itself, then a
floor drain can be added to the construction. It should be placed against the
exterior of the cooler or freezer wall. The exact placement will be determined
by the individual design of the cooler and the floor plan of the business. We
can suggest ideal placements when we have the proper information in our hands.
For an existing structure, then you will usually have to work with the opportunities
that present themselves at the site. If no floor drain is available, perhaps there
is a sink that can be used. A plumber or your refrigeration contractor could provide
advice and assistance with this decision.
#7) What do I need to caulk?
All of our wall and ceiling panels have both inside and outside vinyl gaskets,
so there will be no caulking necessary. This assumes that the box has been installed
level and square, and all of the seams are tight.
The only panel seams you need to caulk will be at the floor and also at the
ceiling perimeter joints. Apply a generous bead with the silicone we have provided,
and using a caulking tool or even your finger, smooth the bead out so that good
adhesion is made to both surfaces. Clean up can be performed with mineral spirits.
Leave the doors of your cabinet open until the silicone cures, and the vinegar
like smell diminishes.
If your cooler includes display doors, run a bead of silicone around the entire
inside perimeter of the frame after installation. If the gap is too large for
silicone, stuff fiberglass insulation or backer rod to fill the joint instead.
The same applies for glass viewing windows. Make sure they are well sealed prior
to the window trim being secured.
All refrigeration or electrical lines penetrating the walls or ceiling need
to be sealed. In addition, the inside of all electrical conduit must be sealed
prior to entering the cooler. This will prevent moisture from collecting inside
the conduit, possibly leading to future electrical problems. Not all electricians
are familiar with this possibility, so it never hurts to remind your contractor.
When your cooler is in operation, if you see any water droplets running down
the wall panels or water pooling onto the floor, it indicates warm air is entering
the walk-in causing moisture and condensation to form. Determine the source of
the air leak and seal properly.
#8) How do I fill a larger gap underneath my wall panels?
If you needed to shim your cooler during installation to compensate for an
uneven floor, you may be faced with gaps larger then Silicone caulk alone can
seal.
Minimal expansion spray foam can be purchased at any hardware store or building
center. It is sold under various brand names in convenient aerosol dispensing
cans. You may need several cans depending on the size of your cooler. The directions
on the can will give you an idea of the product coverage.
First, install whatever type of finish trim you had planned for the outside
of the cooler. This could be vinyl cove base, tile, wood molding or dozens of
other possibilities. Having it in place will prevent the spray foam from expanding
all over the outside flooring.
Now you can apply the foam underneath the wall panels from the inside of the
cooler. If you are unfamiliar working with this product, test spray a small amount
into an empty box, and you can get a feel for how much it expands. This will give
you an idea about how much to apply. Apply masking tape over the inside perimeter
of the floor, if you wish to protect the surface. After the product has finished
expanding and has cured, it can be trimmed flush with the wall panel with a sharp
knife. You will be left with an air tight seal, and can now finish it off with
whatever base trim you choose.
#9) How do I find a good Refrigeration Man?
Finding a good refrigeration contractor should be a high priority for your
business. The initial installation is the key for long-term dependability. After
that, routine service and maintenance will keep your equipment at maximum efficiency.
Best places to check…
1) Contact other businesses in your area that use refrigeration equipment. Examples
would be floral wholesalers, other floral shops, restaurants, bakeries, drug stores,
convenient stores and gas station mini marts.
2) Larger cities have refrigeration wholesalers that can also help. Check the
phone directory: "Refrigeration Equipment - Parts & Supplies".
These wholesalers only sell to other refrigeration contractors. You can ask them
for 1 or 2 references that would be good for your type of business.
3) Call SRC. We keep an extensive list of contractors we have used over the
years. We would be glad to check and see if we have a name in your area. Just
give our service department a call during normal business hours.
Do I want a large or small company…
Each offers advantages that may be good for your business or for your area. What
is more important is the individual service they can provide your business.
At SRC we tend to work with smaller contractors. They are generally more consciences
and customer oriented, since they are owner-operators.
Be prepared…
It's best to have office procedures in place so if the cooler does require service,
your staff immediately knows what to do. Display the service company' name and
phone number in a spot that can be easily retrieved.
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