#1) How soon can I get the equipment?
We do our best to help customers in a variety of situations. Whether your old
unit has just quit, you are planning for a future remodel or have just signed
a lease for a new building we can help! For remodels and new construction, our
detailed computer drawings allow your contractors to continue working while waiting
delivery of your order.
Always remember, you are purchasing equipment that will be the focal point
of your business, and with proper care will last for the next twenty years. Purchase
decisions based solely upon availability may solve an immediate "crisis",
but rarely proves wise in retrospect as a long-term solution.
We counsel our customers to initially take the element of time out of the equation.
Select the equipment that will best fill your needs both now and in the future.
Remember that you will be working and depending on this equipment for many years!
Now that you have reached a decision you are comfortable with, we can go to
work for you. Knowing your time constraints, we can ask many of our long-term
vendors to expedite your order and release the equipment early. Oftentimes, we
can gain weeks on a project. You can assist us in processing the order by returning
signed approvals of all computer drawings and related sales paperwork in a timely
manner.
In most cases, we can manufacture our insulated panels faster then our door
supplier can ship. We generally try to time production so that you receive all
of the shipments in a close period of time. It may be helpful for a rush order
to ship the panels ahead of time. This way you can assemble the walk-in and proceed
with site work, and then receive and install the doors when they finish production.
When all is said and done, you will be left with equipment that will serve
you well for the long run, and not something that you must make do with till your
next purchase.
#2) How much will it cost to install the equipment?
The more of the project you can do yourself the better you will be able to
hold down the overall installation expense.
Refrigeration is a highly technical trade, requiring specialized education
and years of apprenticeship and ongoing training. Support equipment, required
tools and the fact that they make house calls contribute to the hourly fees that
a good technician can command. Part of your focus should be to minimize simple
assembly tasks that could easily be completed by others, and focus the expensive
labor strictly on what they do best. The same guidelines should apply to your
electricians.
Our cabinets and display doors are easily assembled by anyone with basic carpentry
skills. Knowing how to work with a tape measure and carpenters level are the most
important skills. The knowledge that you can save hundreds of dollars in overall
expense is a great motivator to get involved in the installation by those so inclined.
As a rule of thumb, you can budget anywhere from 25% to 40% of your overall
equipment cost as an amount to factor towards a "turn-key" installation.
Amounts can vary due to site conditions, compressor location and the labor costs
in your region.
#3) I want the coldest beer in town!
The best time to make this statement is prior to ordering your equipment! Normal
system sizing provides product temperatures of 38 degrees. Trying to achieve lower
temperatures with a standard system will lead to extended run times, frozen evaporator
coils and eventual premature equipment failure.
To properly handle these lower temperature requirements, you should consider
a Keg Cooler refrigeration system. When a system is operated below 35 degrees,
frost and ice will begin to build up on an Evaporator Coil. If allowed to build,
this frosting will restrict the airflow across the coil. Ice formation will then
increase, and your box and product temperature will rise.
A Keg Cooler system features freezer style evaporator coils. These coils feature
wider fin spacing and heated defrost elements to counteract this frost formation.
Box and product temperatures will be stable, and with a properly sized system,
you will be able to hold any temperature you specify up front.
If your keg cooler will include glass display doors, you may wish to consider
the heated glass option. Your glass display doors will be more susceptible to
sweating without this option, even if your store is air-conditioned. Glass heat
is not an option that can be added on at a later time. It must be included at
the time of order.
#4) How will my cooler be delivered?
In most cases, your delivery will be made via a Common Carrier freight line.
We select carriers based on their track record of fewest damage claims, as well
as the freight rates and speed of delivery.
Prior to Delivery, we will provide you with the tracking numbers ("Pro
numbers") and phone numbers of the delivery terminals. Because you have purchased
equipment "Factory Direct", there may be as many as four separate shipments
to coordinate. If you have purchased your equipment on a "self install"
basis, then you are responsible to coordinate the delivery times with the individual
carriers. You should be able to arrange for all items to be delivered on the same
day.
When the delivery truck arrives, a minimum of four people will be required
to unload your equipment (two in the truck, and two on the ground). Remember that
the drivers are not required to help unload your shipment. The best way to unload
your cooler is panel by panel, even if you have access to a forklift. This will
allow you to make a thorough inspection of all pieces.
Important: Note any damage or missing items on the freight bill as you accept
the shipment. Have the driver initial your notes. When the equipment leaves our
factory, it is in perfect condition. When the carrier picks it up, they take responsibility
for it, until the point you take possession. When you sign for receipt of the
equipment with no damage noted, you are assuming the responsibility for the care
and handling of the freight. If after delivery you then claim damage, the likelihood
of compensation or restitution is very unlikely.
Each standard full-size cooler panel will weigh approximately 65 pounds, and
is roughly the size of a sheet of plywood, only thicker. Our ceiling panels inset
into the tops of our wall panels, so at the top of every wall panel there will
be a 4" high extension, which we call a valance. Do not carry the panel by
the valance, or you could inadvertently bend it. If your cooler has a floor, there
will also be a valance at the bottom of the wall panel. Stand the wall panels
on its "flat" bottom. If both ends are valanced, lay the panel on its
long side. As you continue to unload the shipment, be sure to lift (don't slide)
each panel off the next. This will avoid scratches to the metal surface. We can
provide a small bottle of matching touch-up paint if needed.
Indoor compressors can weigh upwards of one hundred pounds. Outdoor compressors
can weigh several times this amount. If your shipment includes glass doors, these
crates can be heavy and awkward. This is why we recommend a minimum of four people
to receive deliveries.
#5) There's a pole where I want the cooler to go (any obstruction)
Many times in smaller stores or older buildings, free open space is at a premium.
More times then not there will be some obstruction in the way. A big key is to
recognize the obstruction before you order your equipment, and either have it
removed or relocated, or to make allowances with the design of the display. This
will avoid any crisis or unanticipated expense at the time of installation.
How will these questions be answered?
1) Will anything be blocked by the cooler, which may require future access?
(such as circuit panels, water shut-off valves, etc.) Be aware of local code requirements.
2) Our standard height is 8' tall. Are there any overhead obstructions? Are
there any overhead light fixtures, pipes, sprinkler heads, ductwork etc., which
may be in the way? Many times these items can be relocated so that our standard
height will fit, providing maximum storage capacity. If obstructions cannot be
removed, we can modify the overall height of the walk-in for a reasonable charge.
Give some thought to where you want the compressor located. The top
of the cooler is the most popular space. It requires an additional 18"of
clearance to the ceiling to fit. It could also be located next to the cooler on
the floor, on a wall shelf or placed in an adjacent room. Wherever it is placed,
it needs good ventilation. It should not be located in a confined space. All compressor
motors add a certain amount of noise and heat to the room. If this will be objectionable,
you should consider purchasing an outdoor compressor.
3) If you have an interior wall (non-load bearing) that hinders placement of the
cooler, you may be able to create an opening in the wall so part of the walk-in
is on one side of the wall and the remainder of the walk-in on the other side.
SRC will provide the exact dimensions of the opening required. Walk-in door placement
can be ordered as needed.
4) Poles can be designed to fall inside of the cooler if necessary. Ceiling panels
can be field cut around them. We can design the ceiling widths in such a way that
the pole will fall at a seam.
5) Notches, offset corners, tapered designs, angles and custom heights can all
be factored in for very reasonable charges. Our methods of production allow us
to customize coolers economically.
A Second Option - Outdoor Walk-ins
If interior space doesn't exist, or is prohibitive to create, then walk-ins can
easily be modified for outdoor use with the addition of a rubber membrane roof
cap and outdoor compressor. A smooth, level and elevated concrete slab (built
according to local codes) is all that's required. For additional energy savings,
advise your cement contractor to include rigid insulation before pouring the slab.
This economical item will save energy and avoid the need to purchase the insulated
floor from SRC. Concrete slab should be a minimum of 6" longer and wider
than the size of the walk-in. The perimeter edges of the concrete slab should
be slightly sloped and rounded to prevent water standing against cooler walls.
In lieu of placing the compressor motor on top of the walk-in, you can place the
compressor on the slab next to the walk-in. Extend the concrete slab an additional
4' x 4' for the motor. Do not install your walk-in on asphalt. The asphalt will
shift as the seasons change and the black surface will transfer a great deal of
heat into the walk-in.
Now determine walk-in door location:
A) Exterior exposed walk-in door:
Select the location and hinging of the door. The walk-in should be ordered with
the optional "door rain guard and weatherproof light switch". The door
comes equipped with a latch handle that can be padlocked. For added security,
we offer an optional "steel security locking bar", which accepts a padlock
(provided by others).
B) Walk-in door opens into the building:
Determine where the opening can be placed; opening should measure 48" wide.
This will allow the door hinges to swing freely and for the light switch and thermometer
to be exposed. The opening in the building wall should be a minimum of 84"high
for floorless walk-ins and 88"high for walk-ins ordered with SRC insulated
reinforced floor. Advise SRC where the opening is located. Fabrication of the
walk-in door panel will be centered in your opening.
Important note:
For "floorless walk-ins" the finished height of the slab must be even
with the building floor in order for the walk-in door to open across your floor.
For walk-ins ordered with SRC "insulated reinforced floor" the slab
height should be 4¼" below your building floor. After the 4¼"
reinforced floor panels are placed on top of the slab, the door will be in the
proper position to open across your floor.
#6) Who do I call if there's a problem?
A full description of our product warranty can be found following this Link.
Before you call for service, you may want to review our Service FAQ's to see if
the problem you are having is already addressed.
Factory Installed Equipment:
If you have purchased your equipment as an installed package through SRC, and
the equipment is still covered under our 90-day labor warranty period, then your
first call should be to us at 1-800-521-0398. Our service department will coordinate
any necessary repairs for you. After the initial labor period expires, you are
free to select any service provider that you may prefer, or you may continue to
use our installation contractors.
Customer Installed Equipment:
If you purchased only equipment from us, and contracted out the installation to
a third party, then there are no labor warranties through SRC, even if the problem
is caused by a defective part or assembly. Any labor coverage supplied would be
through your installers, and what you negotiated with them when you contracted
their services. You should place your service call with them.
If a defective part is determined to be the source of the problem, and the
equipment is less then one year old, then the defective part is coved under our
warranty. Have your service provider contact our service department for instructions.
It would be helpful if you can supply them with your five-digit Job Number in
advance of their call. This can be found on your Order Acknowledgement paperwork
and final invoice from us.
As long as these procedures are followed, you will bear no expense for the
replacement parts. The only expenses you will incur would be whatever labor charges
are necessary for the replacement of the part. Failure to follow these procedures
may lead to extra expense to you. Any questions about these coverage's can be
directed to our service department during normal business hours, Monday - Friday
EST.
#7) I'm remodeling. Can I change just the panels and doors,
but re-use my existing refrigeration system?
Absolutely! We will be more then happy to supply any individual component that
you may need, or the entire package. Some things to consider:
1) If the equipment is approaching ten years old, you may want to consider
replacement anyway. You are reaching the downward curve of the expected service
life of some of the components. Installation costs will be the same for older
equipment re-used, or installing all new equipment.
2) If you increase the size of the new box, the existing system may not have sufficient
capacity to handle the additional heat load. If you can provide us with the model
numbers and manufacturers name from the existing equipment, we can usually do
the research necessary to predetermine if there will be a problem, and recommend
additional equipment if needed.
This discussion is not just limited to the refrigeration system. Perhaps your
display doors are in excellent shape, and you would like to reuse them. We can
manufacture the display to accommodate the net opening required for your existing
doors as well.
#8) Should the compressor go indoors or outdoors?
INDOOR COMPRESSORS
Advantages:
1) Generally installation costs will be lower
2) Generally easier access to service and maintain
3) Less susceptible to vandalism or tampering
4) Changes in operating characteristics are easier to recognize
Disadvantages:
1) Add noise and heat to the store or kitchen area
2) Indoor pollutants or poor ventilation can decrease equipment life
3) Physical size and ventilation requirements may dictate modifications
to the site.
OUTDOOR COMPRESSORS
Advantages:
1) Heat and noise is removed from indoors. A/C bills will lower.
2) Better ventilation for the equipment. Winter operation will usually
be more efficient. Energy bills may lower as a result.
Disadvantages:
1) Higher initial equipment & installation expense
2) Equipment may require protection in high crime areas
In summary, the benefits gained in noise and heat reduction indoors alone are
generally an important enough advantage to warrant serious consideration of an
outdoor condensing unit, especially for larger displays and coolers.
#9) My electrician want specs for the equipment I ordered
As part of your order acknowledgement paperwork, you will receive a separate
sheet(s) to provide to your electrician. It is printed on yellow paper so it is
easy to recognize. If you need these specifications sooner, please call our service
department. We can always fax a copy of the specifications over to you or to your
electrician.
You will also receive a copy along with the shipment itself. It will be in
the same envelope that the job plans are in.
#10) Do I need heated glass?
It is difficult to know with certainty in advance if a particular installation
will have need for heated glass at some point in the future.
All stores interior conditions are different, even though they may be very
close geographically to each other. Floor plan, cooler set-point, HVAC design,
HVAC control systems and settings can all be unique, and influence whether sweating
or fogging can occur at times.
Generally speaking, non-heated glass doors will rarely sweat in a properly
conditioned environment. The additional expense of the glass heat would not usually
be justified in this case. The only 100% assurance available though is to purchase
this option. The colder you run your display, the more susceptible you will be
to door fogging.
Triple pane glass is available for half the cost as heated glass. This will
afford extra protection for fluctuations in ambient conditions, though not as
extensive as the heated glass option. It may be worth considering for the extra
protection it provides.
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