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#1) Who do I call for service?
If within initial 90 day labor period (Factory installs only):
Your first call should be to us at our toll-free number: 1-800-521-0398. Our service
department will determine if a service call is required, and make the arrangements
for you. If the failure is over the weekend or during a Holiday and you can't
wait to contact us, you can call our installers directly. If the repair ends up
falling under our equipment warranty, then you would be reimbursed for the straight-time
service charges incurred. You would only be responsible for the premium overtime
amounts. Make sure you call our service department to inform us of the problem
when normal business hours resume.
Beyond the labor warranty period:
Since you will be responsible for the labor portion of the repair, you are free
to call any service provider you would like, as well as the original installers.
You can also call our service department, and we would be happy to coordinate
the call for you. If the technician determines that a part or component is defective,
and you are still within the one-year parts warranty, please have them contact
our service department for replacement parts. Compressor motors are covered for
a five-year period. Once again, have your technician contact us for instructions.
If you are unsure about your current warranty coverage:
Please call our service department. We will be happy to pull your job file and
explain your existing coverage.
2) My cooler is blowing warm air.
a) Visually inspect the Evaporator Coil. Are the fins iced over? If they are,
then either shut the display down completely, or make a Temperature Adjustment
to the warmest position (this shortens the defrost time). Leave the unit alone
until the evaporator coil is completely free of ice. This may take a while if
the build-up was heavy. Never attempt to manually defrost or remove built-up ice
by hand or with tools! Once clear, reset the temperature control to the correct
range (38 to 40 degrees). Perform Routine Maintenance as necessary.
b) If the evaporator coil was not iced over, or if the icing occurs again, place
a service call to determine and correct the cause of the problem.
c) If the problem is temporary, then it may be that the unit is in a defrost period.
The defrost setting may be too long as well. The settings on the defrost timer
should be reviewed and adjusted if necessary.
3) My product is freezing:
a) Air directly exiting the Evaporator Coil is approximately 10 degrees
colder then the overall temperature in your cabinet. Product
placed too close to the coil may be damaged. You may wish to
adjust your shelving positions, or make a Temperature Adjustment to
warm the overall display. It should be operated in the 38 to 42 degree
range.
b) Perform Routine Maintenance, making sure that the Condenser Coil
is clean.
Make a slight Temperature Adjustment to warm the cabinet a few degrees. If there
is no change, and the Compressor is running continuously, there may be a problem
with the control system. Place a service call to have your display examined.
4) How do I adjust the temperature?
a) First, determine what the true temperature is in your display. Immerse a
floating aquarium thermometer in a vase of water somewhere inside. This will give
an accurate reading as to the current set point. We recommend a setting somewhere
between 38 to 42 degrees for optimum performance. Perform normal Preventative
Maintenance prior to any temperature adjustment being performed. Adjustments should
not be made to compensate for poorly maintained equipment.
b) Consideration should be given to these factors prior to lowering your displays
temperature:
1) Each degree you lower the temperature will consume more
energy, leading to higher bills.
2) Compressor run times will increase, decreasing the lifetime of the
equipment. More heat & noise will be generated in your store.
3) The possibility of freezing product or iced coils will increase. Product loss
wastes time and money, and is not covered by any equipment Warranty's!
Locating the control
a) If you determine that an adjustment is required, first find the Temperature
Control. It may be mounted anywhere on walk-ins, since it is supplied as a loose
part for field installation. It will most typically be mounted within the cabinet.
It will be a small unit, usually with two scales, adjustment screws and a copper
sensing probe off the bottom. Electrical conduit will enter the bottom of the
control.
b) All of our units are equipped with Pressure Controls. These controls can
appear very similar to temperature controls. They are usually mounted as part
of the Condensing Unit. Trained technicians should only adjust these controls.
The scales of pressure controls always refer to Pressure (P.S.I., bar, etc.) rather
then degrees of temperature.
Adjusting the Temperature Control
These controls are very sensitive, so make small adjustments, and let the temperature
stabilize over a few hours, before rechecking the temperature, and making any
further adjustments.
There are two scales on the control. One scale measures the Set Point, while
the other scale shows the Differential. The temperature swing or range of your
cabinet is determined by the control set point, plus or minus the differential
setting, depending on what model you have. It is usually not necessary to adjust
the differential of the control.
There will be either a screw or a knob located directly above both scales.
Turn the adjusting screw above the temperature scale to move the indicator towards
the desired setting. Remember to move the indicator in only small increments at
a time.
5) "My doors are not sealing"
Sliding Glass Door models:
All display cabinets must be plumb and level for sliding glass doors to seal
properly. Visual indicators of a problem with leveling will be gaps at the top
or bottom of the door seal against the cabinet sidewall, or gaps on the overlap
seal door to door. The doors also may bind, and not glide freely if there is a
problem. Leveling is not a service performed by delivery personnel. These cabinets
are manufactured to rest on a sturdy, smooth and level floor. The longer the cabinet,
the more it may be effected.
What you can do:
If a smooth and level floor is not available, then the cabinet will have to
be shimmed to compensate for any floor irregularities. First get a collection
of wood squares of assorted thickness. You will also need a 4' carpenters level
and a tape measure.
1) Using the level, determine the slope of the floor. This will tell you which
end is the highest. You will want to raise the rest of the cabinet until it is
level with this end.
2) Next, hold your level flush against the face of the display against the highest
end. This will tell you if the cabinet is leaning either forward or back.
3) Now you can start to insert shims under the cabinet supports to raise the cabinet
into position. All four corners of the cabinet may need to be shimmed, as well
as the center, both front and back. It will be helpful if two people level. One
person can tip the display, while the second person can insert the shims.
4) You will be finished when your carpenters level can be placed anywhere against
any of the horizontal or vertical surfaces and read perfectly plumb. A final test
can then be made. Measure the doorframe assembly from the lower left corner to
the upper right corner, and compare this measurement to the opposite corner-to-corner
measurement. They should be exactly the same. If they are off, then the cabinet
is still off. The bottom rail of the doorframe should also be perfectly straight,
with no sag or bow.
What to do if there still is a gap:
Leveling the cabinet will generally solve ninety percent of seal problems.
In rare cases, individual adjustment to the doors themselves may be necessary.
If your cabinet is now perfectly square, and one of your doors is now out of square
in the frame, the following procedure can usually be performed.
1) Remove the door from the display by lifting it up and swinging the bottom
of the door out free from the bottom rail.
2) Once the door is removed, you can shim the individual door rollers with washers
to square the door within the frame.
Swing Glass Door Displays:
If a smooth and level floor is not available, then the cabinet will have to
be shimmed to compensate for any floor irregularities. First get a collection
of wood squares of assorted thickness. You will also need a 4' carpenters level
and a tape measure.
1) Using the level, determine the slope of the floor. This will tell you which
end is the highest. You will want to raise the rest of the cabinet until it is
level with this end.
2) Next, hold your level flush against the face of the display against the highest
end. This will tell you if the cabinet is leaning either forward or back.
3) Now you can start to insert shims under the casters to raise the cabinet into
position. All four corners of the cabinet may need to be shimmed, as well as the
center casters, both front and back. It will be helpful if two people level. One
person can tip the display, while the second person can insert the shims.
4) You will be finished when your carpenters level can be placed anywhere against
any of the horizontal or vertical surfaces and read perfectly plumb. A final test
can then be made. Measure the doorframe assembly from the lower left corner to
the upper right corner, and compare this measurement to the opposite corner-to-corner
measurement. They should be exactly the same. If they are off, then the cabinet
is still off. The bottom rail of the doorframe should also be perfectly straight,
with no sag or bow.
Final Adjustments:
Leveling the cabinet will generally solve ninety percent of any gaps there may
be. To fine-tune your doors, use the Anthony Torquemaster mechanism. This is the
bottom pivot mechanism on your glass doors. There are two adjustment screws. The
screw on the face of the mechanism adjusts the closing force. This should be set
so that the doors will close firmly, but not to the point of slamming. The screw
on the edge of the Torguemaster controls the square of the door within the frame.
You will see the door move back and forth within the frame as you adjust the screw.
Use this for fine-tuning.
Series #9000 Solid Entry Door Troubleshooting
#6) DISPLAY DOORS ARE SWEATING
Why it Happens:
The door frames of your display are heated, and will normally stay moisture
free, except in the harshest conditions. However door frame heaters will have
no effect on the glass surface of the doors. Glass heat is normally not needed
in a properly conditioned environment.
A refrigerated display will not only remove the heat from the air in the cabinet,
but it will also attempt to pull heat from the walls of the display, as well as
from the glass display doors. The effects on our wall panels are very minimal,
because we use high-grade solid insulating materials in the construction. Even
though our glass doors are the highest grade on the market, they cannot achieve
the same degree of insulation as our walls.
Because of this refrigeration effect, the surface temperature of the glass
doors is below the temperature inside your store. The colder you operate your
display, the colder your doors will be. When the Dew Point of the indoor air rises
to or above the surface temperature of your doors, moisture will begin to condense
on the glass surface.
What does Dew Point refer to? At any given temperature, air can hold a certain
quantity of water in the form of vapor. Warm air can hold much more water vapor
then cold air. The amount of moisture in the air is expressed as a percentage,
referred to as the Relative Humidity. Air totally dry would have 0%RH, whereas
air that is totally saturated, and can hold no more vapor would be at 100%RH.
As an example, if you had a room at 77 degrees, with 56%RH, and simply lowered
the temperature down to the Dew Point of 60 degrees without removing any of the
moisture, the air would be totally saturated and dew would form on everything
in the room. In the same example, leave the room temperature alone but set down
a cold glass of ice water, itself well below the Dew Point of 60 degrees. The
glass will eventually begin to sweat. The same thing would happen to a glass display
door, if the surface temperature of that door dropped to 60 degrees. If your glass
is sweating, this is exactly what is occurring.
Can Anything be Done?
a) Raising the temperature in the display case will also raise the surface
temperature of the doors, possibly above the dew point.
b) If the air conditioning is on a nighttime setback, all that may be needed is
to clean the doors off first thing in the morning. As the air conditioning begins
to operate, the problem may go away.
c) A colder setting on the air conditioning may help to pull more moisture from
the air. This may lower the Dew Point below the door temperature.
d) Is the air conditioning thermostat actually sensing the air where the doors
are located? If it is in a separate space or room, then it is not controlling
the area you need controlled.
e) Is there proper air supply and return distribution in the room, to properly
condition the air? Is the Air Conditioning system sized correctly for your building?
f) Are you are leaving any outside doors open, perhaps to take advantage of cooler
weather outdoors?
g) If all other avenues have been exhausted, and the problem is more then you
can accept, then the final option would be to replace your present doors with
new heated glass doors to compensate for the ambient conditions. This is an expensive
alternative, since there would be no credit given for your present doors.
#7) GLASS DOORS ARE POPPING OPEN
Why it Happens:
Our cabinets are structurally solid, and fully gasketed. When properly installed
they will form an air-tight unit. When any of the doors are closed suddenly, an
air-hammer effect can be created inside the cabinet. There will be a positive
pressure formed, and this pressure will be released at the point of least resistance.
This point is generally the glass display doors, since they are held in place
by only the magnetic strips within the gaskets. If the closing tension of the
doors is too light, they may stay open, wasting energy.
Can Anything be Done?
This is a relatively easy problem to fix. The bottom hinge mechanism of the
Anthony glass display doors is called a Torquemaster. The screw on the face of
this mechanism allows you to easily adjust the closing force of the doors. Adjust
the screw counter-clockwise to increase the tension. Do not adjust to the point
of the door slamming, since this can cause problems down the road with the doors.
There is also a screw on the edge of the mechanism. This screw allows you to
adjust the square of the door within the frame.
If adjustment of the front screw has no effect, and the door swings loosely
with no tension at all, then the torque rod may be broken within the door. This
is an easy part to replace, so call our service department to order the correct
rod.
8) "My cooler is noisy"
The heart of your display is called the Compressor. Its job is to compress
the refrigerant that is the lifeblood of your display, and circulate it throughout
the system. To accomplish this task, it has pistons, a crankshaft and valve plates
which operate at high rates of speed under pressure. It also has a separate fan
motor to draw air through the Condenser Coil and across the Compressor to help
cool it. The Condensing Unit assembly works together to transfer the heat from
the refrigerated space into the air wherever it is located. Unfortunately, all
of this work will result in operating noise. Whether or not this noise will be
objectionable will be dependent on several factors:
a) Compressor location. If the condensing unit is located near to an area
where you work, or a Sales counter, it may be more noticeable then if positioned
back in your workspace.
b) The Shop layout. If your workspace has hard floors and ceilings, along
with little background noise, the operational sound will be more apparent.
c) Personal sensitivity. Objectionable noise can be a very subjective
thing. One person can find something unbearable, while the next person may never
notice it. Any time a new noise enters an environment it will be noticed, until
the point where it becomes a part of that space.
There is little that can be done to quiet a condensing unit once in place.
It cannot be enclosed, since it needs good airflow for efficient operation and
lack of service expense & headaches. You can discuss moving the condensing
unit to a more remote location within the store with a qualified refrigeration
technician.
Any sudden change in the operating characteristics of your equipment should
be investigated. If the character of the normal operating noise suddenly changes,
this could be an indicator to service problems that may lead to equipment failure.
Normal operating characteristics are generally smooth in character. A steady hum
and fan noise is normal. Mechanical knocks, pings or clanking should not be present,
and should be investigated. The source of these types of sounds should be correctable.
9) "My cooler is leaking water"
The source of water leaks in refrigerated cabinets can be from two sources:
1) The Evaporator Coil Drainage System. The copper tubing and fins in
the housing of the coil are colder then the air inside your cooler when the compressor
is operating. As air is forced through the coil by the fan motor, moisture will
collect on these fins. This moisture will form droplets, and fall into the bottom
pan, which is part of the evaporator coil assembly. From there it will be directed
into a drain hose, and then into the bucket, floor drain or electric hot pan.
a) If the drain line becomes plugged or obstructed at any point, then water
will back up and spill over the edges of the coil. If this is the problem, the
unit will need to be shut down, and the obstruction cleaned out.
b) If the coil assembly is not pitched back towards the drain hose, water can
pool in the front of the drain pan, and be blown out or leak from screw holes.
Drain pans generally have a pitch designed into them, but if the cabinet itself
is not level or pitched forward, it can defeat this design feature. Recheck if
the cabinet is leveled properly. If more drain pitch is required, the evaporator
coil assembly can be shimmed to assist the water to flow back to the drain.
2) General Air Leaks. Whenever the cold air inside the cabinet meats the warmer
outside air, moisture will form. Thus, if a floor or ceiling seam is not sealed
properly, you may notice condensation or water droplets on your walls or at the
floor. The leveler that the cabinet is, the tighter all of the seams and doors
will shut. Use a 100% silicone caulk to seal any seams where you notice condensation.
Some coolers when installed in a non air-conditioned warehouse will develop
condensation on the outside of the walls or especially the entry doors when the
weather is warm and/or humid. There is little that can be done to alleviate this
situation. Sometimes air movement, in the form of a floor or ceiling fan can help
reduce or eliminate the problem.
10) How do I clean my cooler?
Normal maintenance on our coolers is very easy. Well-maintained equipment will
enjoy few mechanical failures, run efficiently and last for a long time. It pays
to tailor a regular cleaning program for your equipment. How often cleaning is
required is determined by the use the equipment gets, and how dusty the environment
is.
Monthly:
a) Clean the Condenser Coil of your condensing unit. It will be safer for you
to shut off the circuit breaker when you do this. A Shop-Vac works well for this
purpose. Not only can you vacuum the surface, but also you can reverse the flow
of air to blow deeply imbedded dust out from the center of the coil. Blow it out
from both directions as best you can. You can then wipe off the housing and compressor
with a damp rag. This simple maintenance is the single most important thing you
can do for your system.
b) Clean the interior of your cabinet. Avoid using harsh cleaners that can pit
the painted finishes over time. Mild soap and water will normally be sufficient,
especially if done on a regular basis. Hard water stains can be cleaned with a
mixture of white vinegar and water. Bleach and water can be used to clean mildew
and mold. If you notice any of the caulk seals coming loose, pull it free. You
can pick up small tubes of silicone at any hardware store to reseal the joint.
c) Check to make sure that your doors are sealing tightly to the cabinet. A visual
inspection is all that is normally needed. You should be able to close the door
on a dollar bill, and feel resistance when you pull the bill back out. If you
need help adjusting your doors, click on this Link.
Annually:
a) Clean Your Evaporator Coil. This may be more involved then you wish to get
involved
in. Evaporator cleaning solutions are sold at refrigeration wholesalers by the
bottle. They are specially formulated to clean the type of sediment that can collect
over time in these evaporators. They are also very easy to use. Directions will
be on the bottle. Power will need to be shut off. The drain tube should be disconnected,
and the bottom pan of the evaporator coil can then be unscrewed and removed. Clean
and disinfect the inside of the pan, and follow the package directions to clean
the copper tubing and fins of the coil itself. If you are uncomfortable with these
procedures, you can always schedule a preventative maintenance service call with
a refrigeration technician.
Clean your door gaskets with a soft cloth, soap, and water. Repair any small tears
with a clear silicone adhesive. To keep them soft and pliable, wipe them down
with a vinyl preservative, commonly sold at automotive supply stores. If a gasket
should tear beyond repair, it pays to have it replaced, both in extra operating
expense and less wear and tear on your compressor.
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